Page 1 of 7 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 325

Thread: D16z6 itb swap 1984 mayfair rhd

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264

    D16z6 itb swap 1984 mayfair rhd



    put alittle paint on my shell this pass weekend
    gloss almond white


    the wheel arches are gonna be gloss black
    and it will have gloss black 13x5.5 rims

    and black interior

    I had a build post going on the other vtec mini site before it went down

    but this is how my 500gbp rust bucket started out its life with me

    998/auto


  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264



    it had a heater core leak, but it had carpet so the owner before would just keep on putting water in the radiator

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    rear suspension


    13x5.5 rims

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    pedal box with triple mc's


    D16z6 installed into rolling shell

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    billet adapters to mount accent 9.5 rotors to the mini flange hub set up

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    rear brakes


  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    Nice work, I do like the rear subframe/swing-arm design. Does it maintain the stock track width? What kind of shocks are you using? Did you need to clearance the inner arches for the springs to clear? I still have the stock rear subframe because the car is already to nose heavy and a beam would make it worse. With the 120 pound lighter D series though, you can take more weight out of the back. Good job...that thing should fly.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    stock track width, the shocks are non-adjustable qa1's, they came with the kit from mini tec, im gonna use them for now but later on change them out for some real coil overs

    their was some love taps to make the inner arches clear the 2.5in springs, that's what mini tec said to do

    I also have a carbon fiber boot floor from absmotorsports

    and a 10gal rci fuel cell


    up front I have some minitastic fast road coils with hi-low's with drop gaz adjustable shocks, but ive already got a set of qa1 2.5in springs for the front, I havn't got my qa1 coilovers yet, saving up for them but ptfe fittings keep on lowering those on the list


    I would love to check out your yellow monster sometime
    Last edited by thatguyagain; 09-15-2013 at 02:09 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    If you mentioned where you are located, I forgot....I checked your profile, but nothing there.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    I live in the uk, but im from San Diego Ca,

    gonna go visit this winter

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    Oh, well give me a heads up when you get in town, I am in the process of moving to north San Diego county right now.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    welding gas came in around noon today, so I spent a few hrs cutting up some recycled metal
    and got my pedal box mounted in the car, pedal box mount also holes the front of the heater box up
    still need to drill the holes for the front of the heater box, but for now, a welding clamp is holding it up


  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    this is what the recycled metal started out as, mock up

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    I just noticed that it is right hand drive. How did you get the engine in with the RHD rack? Did you extend the nose or move the rack back?

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    did some wiring on the mini today, it now turns over by the key switch, im waiting on some fittings to come in for the fuel system


    the rack is in the stock location, counter sink the rack cover bolts and then grind some of the top edge away from the rack and grind alittle from the gearbox itself, not to crazy on the gearbox for some crazy reason, lol
    and I have poly bushings for the engine mount, I have about 1/16-1/8 inch gap, the poly bushings keep the engine from moving around so then the gap can be tighter to start out with and not rub

    I have a clubby front clip, but the guy that made the subframe had it set up for a extend round nose mini

  18. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    Ahh, I understand. That will result in the engine being a couple inches farther forward than our LHD kits, but the Clubby front will handle that. We also remove some metal from the back of the Diff case, leaving less than a millimeter clearance at the gator clamp on the rack. Did your frame builder also move the wheels/suspension forward a bit too? Stock wheel base is 80 inches, you could check by measuring between front and rear wheel centers.

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    I'll have to measure the wheel base, but the suspension points on the subframe are stock mini, so the wheel base should be the same as stock

  20. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    I would be interested to see if the wheel base is still stock....maybe the whole suspension tower is moved forward, if not and the WB is stock, then the the drive shafts must be angled from the diff, back to the hubs. We can't do that with our frame, because the inner CV, on the right side, being moved forward the necessary two inches or so, would hit the lower arm bracket and frame structure. Too bad, because about half the Minis here seem to be right hand drive now days and almost all the owners are not willing to convert over to Left-drive. The clubman fronts are not popular here either.

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    I went with the clubby front because it gives extra room for the radiator and header,

    i'll take a picture of the driveshaft angle and post it as well

    the suspension tower is from a stock mini subframe

    I would love to do a lhd vtec auto conversion for my wife, I think that would be sweet for daily driving,
    not to much power to make it crazy but enuff to move out of its own way
    and yet still be a simple car for wizz-ing around town

    my wife can't drive rhd cars on the left side of the road to save her life, keeps on hitting curbs and whatnot
    the auto box has good gearing for small wheels as well

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    Yeah, I think that the D motor and auto trans would make a very practical daily driver, but those trannies are huge!!! they stick out in all the wrong places. I think a Geo Metro 3 cylinder, one liter with AT would be an easier swap....I am doing that engine in a Mini Pickup currently, but with the 5 speed box; it will be 120 pounds lighter than with the stock Mini lump; Hoping for 70+ MPG US; my Chevy Sprint, with that 3 cyl motor, got 60 mpg US on the highway, and it was 300 pounds heavier and a bigger car. With the weight reduction and 5 gears, the 52 HP 3-cyl should pull at least as well as a 1275.

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    that's the other engine that ive been looking into as well, im thinking a tbi around 92-94 or so, will also make the wiring cake job for the most part
    and I think those 3cyl use the same spline count on the axles as stock mini's
    I think the engine and 5speed box are about 170-180lbs or maybe that was the 4cyl weight

    I think with the 3cyl engine/box, one could probably get a mini overall weight down to 1200-1300lbs without to much work,


    I would love to try this caliper on the front of a mini with some 7.5rotors and 10inch wheels
    http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...emno=120-10188
    with making a mini super light and small wheels, I think those calipers would work great for a city driver type car that wont see track racing
    and those calipers are super light vs the 7.5 cooper and 8.4 calipers so that should help the handling
    and they run about $100 ea from summitracing, way cheaper then cooper s calipers

    do you have any build pictures of your pickup online?

  24. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    I daily drive a nissan micra k11 cg10de/5speed, around town it pulls nice with just me in it, has good power but on the highway with 2 dudes, its pretty good with power still but can feel the weight a little bit when taking off from a go but with a family of 4 in the car, I can really feel the lack of power on the highway and the car likes to keep to 70 and that's it, with the family in the car around town its not bad but the weight makes it feel different and have to clutch it a bit harder when taking off
    this car weighs about 1700-1800, around the same as a geo metro I would say, and it pulls 35-40city and 45 highway@70-75mph
    its a good little engine and I wish Nissan made it in the states because if they did then I would take a few back with me, but the way it stays right now, if anything broke on it, I would have to order parts
    from overseas to repair it, and the cost and wait time wouldn't be cool, so the next closest small engine like this would be the geo metro engine

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    Yes, I already slipped those axles into a Mini CV. they are good fit on the spline; the CVs are a little different though, and the axle length will need to be changed. As long as I am cutting them, I will just use Mini outer ends anyway. I did a very accurate weighing of both the Suzuki and mini lumps, similarly equipped, on my industrial weight scales. You are very close to my numbers. I have them recorded somewhere, but I recall it was about a 115 - 120 pound difference with the Mini lump. I am using the pre-Geo version from An 86 Chevy Sprint....these had electronic carbs, with an ECU, which I have found to get much better fuel economy than the later injected Geos;(I have owned both). I have also ditched the Sprint gear box, which has 4.11 FD ratio on most of them; I picked up a later G13b box out of a 4 cyl Suzuki model, which has a 3.52 FD. This will work better for economy and noise reduction on the Mini truck. I do have some pics of the sub frame I made for it, which is as far as I have got....can't put them up here any more, but I could email them when I get some time. I am still moving loads to the new property in SD.

  26. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    does a stock metro outer cv joint fit a mini hub?

  27. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    its hard to get a good pic of the axle angle, granted my suspension hasn't been set yet as well the upper arm doesn't move

  28. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    here's the sensor you where talking about, I have it sitting in a loop on the intake manifold



  29. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264



    need to do more polishing and whatnot but we had like 2 sec of sun today in England, so I wanted to see what the car would look like with sun on it

  30. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    1st time the engine has started since dec 2012

    http://s44.photobucket.com/user/joak...35749.mp4.html

  31. #31
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    it was open exhaust, with just the header

    http://s44.photobucket.com/user/joak...f487e.mp4.html

  32. #32
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    today I put my flex pipe onto the exhaust, exts it out about 6-8inches or so
    need to order pipe still

    and I went and got some 5/8's heater hose and clamps, ran that, and filled the radiator up with coolant, still need to bleed the air out
    and then tonight im gonna put in my rear side quarter glass

    im trying to start putting it all back together, I want to get a rolling shell with working brakes and clutch, so that I can drive it around the streets

    I have the rear arches primed up, but I just cant make up my mind, flat black or gloss black for them

    and I plan to work on getting the engine to idle this weekend, so that I can time it, the engine seems to be running way rich, but im hopping because it hasn't ran in a super long time and the timing could be a hair off

    my fuel pressure is set to 42-43psi
    Last edited by thatguyagain; 10-08-2013 at 11:41 AM.

  33. #33
    You de-seamed the car, sweet
    poco a poco
    fun is not too far off

  34. #34
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    my buddy came over and looked at my tune and said the reason why its running rich was the tune was the problem,

    so I re-uploaded the dyno tune again and now its good,
    just need to get more fuel for it

    he also took me out for a highway run in his stock engine k20 with 208hp, that thing is a monster
    Last edited by thatguyagain; 10-10-2013 at 08:10 AM.

  35. #35
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    windshield install part 2 went good, part 1 not so much, hahahaha
    the 1st window was much thinner then the 2nd one, oh well

    its installed now

    I painted the boot lid last night as well, im gonna wait a day or so to color sand it

  36. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    Windshields are always a major struggle with me, I haven't broken one yet, but I should have! I have one of the "thin" ones in my yellow car, (weight savings of course), but I will be replacing it with Polycarbonate, as soon as I get a round tuit. I understand that you can get polycarb with a non scratch coating, like the eye glasses have. anyone heard of doing this with a flat piece of poly carb? I'm thinking it should flex enough to get it fitted around the stock rubber channel.

  37. #37
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    the front windshield isn't flat, so you'll probably have some issues with that

    I didn't think you could put a poly window in the front of a road going car?
    and im sure California cops is gonna love that,


    I know here in the UK, u can do the 4 sides and 1 rear but not the front on a road car


    anyways, did some more work to the car this nice 4 day weekend
    made the lines for the m/c's to the firewall for the clutch and front brakes
    painted black the inside of the A-posts/front cage legs
    went to dsn and got a new windshield after I broke the 1st one
    painted the boot lid
    covered the dash in black vinyl, did the cut outs for the wideband and heater vents, and made the switch panel ext to the dash
    sanded down the switch panel and primed
    welded the flex pipe to the 2.5in exhaust pipe
    re-uploaded the tune to the ecm and now it seems to run a ton better, that and it has some long exhaust pipe to it now
    re-made one of the small fuel lines
    got a few new fittings for the fuel lines off the cell

    Last edited by thatguyagain; 10-15-2013 at 03:08 AM.

  38. #38
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    I realize the windscreen is not flat, but it takes only a few ounces of force to flex a piece of flat 3/16" Poly into the slight curve required....actually if you hold it in the middle, the ends will bow more than the required amount, just from gravity. Just not sure if this will make a difference in the installation. I'm thinking not.
    Yes, plastic windscreens iare not permitted here, but who is gonna know unless I tell them? " Thanks officer for giving me the ticket for no wipers, turn sigs, horn, non DOT racing tires, non DOT split rims, loud exhaust, late model, Smogable, Honda engine in a car registered as an old Mini, but you failed to notice that my windscreen is non-DOT plastic....do you have room to add that on there"
    Good job on covering the dash...I had probs with that, getting the flaps to stick behind the holes and other sharp curves....I started with contact cement, (didn't hold), then super glue and a staple gun in a few spots...what was your method?
    Last edited by steve; 10-15-2013 at 01:15 PM.

  39. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    3m glue in a can, a heat gun, and a lot of staples

  40. #40
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    got the rear window put in, it was a pain in the rear, because I had already put the two sides in, but I worked it and its good
    the car is coming together, still waiting on a few fittings

    I want to get the interior put back together by the end of the month


    I was thinking about painting the arches and boot lid flat black


    also the rear mk2 light housings are flat black already

  41. #41
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    365
    I saw a Lamborghini painted flat black recently and one that was gold plated. Hated the black one..it looked like a "rat rod" Maybe gold plate your arches:-)?

  42. #42
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    just got back from taking a class in Germany, fleet 1&2 for my job, and a few weeks away from my mini has got the fire burning, it was a nice break from the car but now its time to bust a move on it

    I found some used yoko 539's online about 40 miles each way, for 55gbp

    and then I got a small tool box to help with my tool mess

    sanded my other door down to bare metal and primed it and did the small amount of body work on it,
    I should have it ready for paint tonight
    just needs alittle more blocking

    I picked up a used but brand new single cam Honda dizzy from a in-door junkyard in Germany for $15
    to good of a deal to pass up

  43. #43
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    last night I blocked the door and did another coat of primer on it, this layer of primer and the other brand of primer reacted to each other, ( not a happy camper)
    I ended up stripping the door 100% down to bare metal and starting over on it, took me about 6hrs to strip the door down and clean and re-primer and re-do the small amount of filler work it needed
    and block back down and clean and re-primer, im gonna block it one more time sometime this afternoon, and then when the kids go to bed, im gonna lay some paint down on the door

    I was so upset with myself last night

    so to make myself feel better, I ordered yep
    mini parts that I need,
    outer window seals, mk2 tail light housing to body seals, lens seals, new black plastic mirrors, washer bottle bracket, and extra mirror base covers from mini spares


    but I got to looking, I want a wood steering wheel, mini spares make the wheel I want in 13 or 14inch
    not sure what size to go with
    http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...assic/steering wheel.aspx|Back to search

    http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...assic/steering wheel.aspx|Back to search

  44. #44
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    dropped a can of paint on my left door and this is what happened, lol

  45. #45
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264
    http://www.absmotorsport.co.uk/index...l#.UpwGVdvFKM8

    im thinking about using this grill as a base to mod to build a billet grill with the flat bars on it, like what you would find on a chevy or gmc sierra truck

  46. #46
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264


    mounted this door to the shell tonight,

    in the next few days i'll build the rest of the door up

  47. #47
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264

  48. #48
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264



    front brakes are coming together now

    mailed myself some bone stock rotors from autozone
    9.52inch rotors, and those will be going on some wilwood 4 piston calipers/pads

    and my brakes lines are pfte -4 steel braided lines

    the clutch on my car is ready to go
    and the rear brakes are ready to go,...... just need to set the balance bar for the rear brakes, but test driving needs to be done to dail in... later on when the car is more ready

    and tonight im gonna work on the front brakes

  49. #49
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264



  50. #50
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tucson
    Posts
    264

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •